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Got an anycubic resin printer and I'm using their high speed resin (because it was bundled for free), and i tried to send a file using the high speed setting.
After the print it was seemed to be ok, then after i left in a bath of ethanol (IPA can't be found in stores in my country) i got all those holes.
What's the problem?
A slicer problem? The ethanol bath? The high speed resin that's not good?
It's not air bubbles, they wouldn't cause such huge holes.
I'm guessing that your 3d moddel bad. Intersection edges, wrong normals, that kind of stuff.
Try this: https://all3dp.com/2/stl-repair-fixer-tool-online-offline/
To clarify: the issue is that the bad 3d moddel leaves you with very thin walls which get destroyed during the wash
the slicer said the model needed a repair (which it did), but then it also does this with other stuff. Later I try with a profile with more exposure time
I see, but that just makes me want to blame the model even more.
What can happen if you repair a bad model is that intersecting faces are merged in a way that leads to voids on the inside of your model. If that's the case it's really hard to fix for somebody who doesn't have experience with pointcloud based 3d modeling.
Please print something that you know is "good", like the official 3d benchy. I'm almost certain it won't have the holes that you're experiencing on your part.
Edit: do you have a link to the moddel? Then I can confirm for you whether the problem is with the mesh or not.
It was the resin. Once I bought a resin from another brand, it printed perfectly
It really puzzles me why they would bundle 2 kg of low quality "high speed" resin that isn't even able to correctly print the test files...
Wow okay, definitely unexpected, but I'm glad you figured it out!
Maybe the reseller just wanted to get rid of bad stock?
I noticed that that "high speed resin" was sold out even if they were still bundling it with new printers
Then I realized that the profile for that resin in their own official slicer had half the vertical resolution and half the exposure time. It's something broken that they created just for allowing the marketing to say "the fastest printer on the market, full prints in 2 hours instead of 8". Even the demo file that was given with the resin had layer delamination when printed, and that's the best use case, an empty cylinder that needs no support and has a constant wall thickness all around
Ethanol should be fine to use as far as I know. Do the holes go all the way through? If so your screen might have dead spots. You can visually inspect the screen by setting it to do a test exposure without the resin tank on it to check. Also obviously check that your tank doesn't have any failed print bits stick to the sheet.
visual inspection of test exposure is ok, and then the vat is brand new so the sheet was immaculate
Is this the first print you've done with it? Have you done any exposure calibration with this resin?
first print with the printer and first print with resin in my life
The manual didn't mention the exposure calibration at all...
They look like air bubbles to me, but it is weird they only come out after the bath. Could be they were already inside, but only covered by a thin wall of resin.
I usually use Isopropanol for bath not Ethanol, so I am not sure how your resin reacts with that. The bath should also be rather short, like 1min or something.
A few things to try:
I unno, but that would paint up into a sick ass looking zombie
It has nothing to do with the ethanol, the uncured resin simply covers the surface and fills small holes, hiding them
I would guess it's something funny with the 3d model, air bubbles in the tank wouldn't be consistent between layers. Try inspecting the problematic layers on your slicer.
Almost looks like the slicer might be trying to add FDM style infill, make sure it is not.