WantsToPetYourKitty

joined 1 year ago
[–] [email protected] 2 points 2 months ago

Well I mean actuaries are like savants. Years ago in uni my calc III college prof was one. Amazingly sharp dude. Do I think insurance companies over-generalize their risk assessments? Yupp. Do insurance companies likely ignore their actuaries and set premiums to make outrageous profit? Probably.

Disclosure: I hate insurance companies. Also that professor was super weird

[–] [email protected] 11 points 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) (3 children)

It's funny that even though theft rates have plummeted since the mass software upgrade, premiums have stayed high. They have savant-level mathematicians (actuaries) evaluating risk and even with compelling data showing otherwise, they choose to keep labeling these cars high risk and continue to charge exorbitant premiums.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 2 months ago

Thanks for your detailed response. Super weird!! Makes sense that I didn't pick any of that up from his videos on factual events

[–] [email protected] 1 points 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) (2 children)

Tik is a huge source of WWII misinformation? That's funny. I've watched tons of his WWII videos, they are excellent. His day-by-day series on Stalingrad is fantastic. Can you elaborate as to why you believe that? He agrees with the point that oil was a major driver for the invasion of the east. So is that statement misinformation too?

[–] [email protected] 0 points 3 months ago (4 children)

100%. Germany's ability to wage blitzkrieg was entirely dependent on oil, which it did not have and could not obtain sufficient amounts from Romania alone. The YouTube channel TikHistory does a great video explaining this:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kVo5I0xNRhg&pp=ygUVVGlraGlzdG9yeSBHZXJtYW4gb2ls

[–] [email protected] 11 points 6 months ago (1 children)

I work in the plastics industry. TiO2 is definitely our pigment of choice for white colorant

[–] [email protected] 10 points 7 months ago (1 children)

"I'm vegan! I don't need to shower! I don't produce mucus or smell because of my superior diet. Brb I'm gonna go wash my feet in the toilet!" -Steve Jobs

[–] [email protected] 1 points 8 months ago* (last edited 8 months ago)

From Tesla's owners manual, referenced in the article:

Immediately remove corrosive substances (such as grease, oil, tree resin, dead insects....

I find it really funny that the folks at Tesla consider grease to be "corrosive".

[–] [email protected] 2 points 8 months ago* (last edited 8 months ago) (2 children)

Random thought but why do the provided links never work in Memmy? They don't redirect.

[–] [email protected] 12 points 10 months ago (2 children)

Ram trucks also are the #1 vehicle for DUIs in the US.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 10 months ago

I use a ZWO 183MC, uncooled

 

This was my very first attempt at planetary imaging with my SCT6. I've been doing EAA work for a few years now, but mostly DSOs through the use of a Hyperstar. Last night I removed the Hyperstar from the rig and made my first attempts at imaging at the native 1500mm focal length.

This was a 5 minute video processed with lucky sampling.

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submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

I made a post previously on having rot behind a soffit and many of you gave me great advice on how to proceed in fixing it the right way.

This weekend I worked nonstop and got most of everything fixed. I removed part of soffit and cut the rafter tail to expose the area and quickly identified the problem - no kickout flashing

I cut out the rot on the sheathing and patched in plywood. I ripped the siding off all the way up to the roof to expose all the step flashing - this involved removing both the vinyl siding and the original composite siding. Working from the bottom upwards, I laid down new house wrap. I fabricated a nice piece of kick flashing to go on the end of the run.

Then I installed a nice piece of counter flashing over the step flash, then finally another layer of house wrap partially overlapping the cFlash.

I then installed pressure treated furring strips for the vinyl siding and reinstalled the siding. Here's the siding going over my kickout flashing.

With that done I repaired the rafter tail and replaced all the rotten fascia board, then reinstalled the soffit vents.

Now I'm in the process of installing drip edge before the gutter goes back. Due to poor roof installation, the underlayment doesn't extend down far enough to overlap my drip edge, so I'm having to cut 2.5" wide tarpaper strips and splice them in underneath the existing underlayment edge. That way the drip edge will be covered.

 

Hey folks, looking for some advice because I don't know how to proceed.

This house came with vinyl siding and I noticed rot under it. The rot terminates up high behind where this soffit meets with the exterior wall. I need to get in here to figure out how water is getting in and then make necessary repairs, but the soffit is really in the way.

I've already removed the rot lower down - I had to remove vinyl siding, a layer of foam board, a layer of rotten OSB, the original rotten siding, and the original rotten sheathing. All of those layers are still present behind this soffit.

When I take the soffit vent off, there's a layer of OSB directly above it. Really don't know how to gain access here.

Any ideas?

 

The chain sprocket here is supposed to rotate the keyed shaft below. At some point the 1/4" sq key came out. Instead of replacing the key, someone decided to try to just tighten the tiny set screw in the sprocket until it bottomed out on the keyway floor. It didn't end well and the keyway got trashed.

I cleaned up the keyway and installed a new key.

Then I milled a 1/4" slot into one half of a split shaft collar, and installed the collar over the part of the exposed key where the keyway in the shaft was damaged. Finally I installed a regular split shaft collar to butt against the end of the new key to keep it from backing out again. Final pic

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