Buelldozer

joined 1 year ago
[–] [email protected] 6 points 3 days ago

IMO, the most effective method weapon would be a steam roller

The most effective weapon would be a steam roller equipped with a machine gun that fires lightsabers.

[–] [email protected] 33 points 3 days ago (2 children)

For instance, suppressing fire; you can’t suppress zombies, because they don’t care if they get shot, and it only matters if they get shot in the head.

This makes my teeth itch. I realize that this is NCD but...

Without claiming outright magic damage to muscle and bone still matters. A bipedal creature absolutely requires certain muscles and bones to remain upright. If a zombie gets hit with a rifle round that blows out a 3" chunk of its spine then it can't stand up. That kind of damage is easily done with a 30 caliber rifle round (7.76) let alone the venerable .50 caliber. Even the relatively small .223 / 5.56 that's carried by standard infantry will remove muscle and break bones.

Your average grunt is going to figure out real quick where and how they need to shoot in order to slow or stop these things. If head shots aren't possible and it takes too much ammo for body shots they'll start aiming for the knees and ankles, because again that zombie can't run / shamble at you if it has no feet or it's ankle or knee has been blown into a hundred pieces.

So when Tommy Tactical or Isaac Infantry mag dumps 20 rounds of 5.56 into a zombie it may not be "dead" but it sure as shit has taken critical damage to its musculoskeletal system and will almost certainly not able to stand upright. Ol' Mike the Mighty on the Ma Deuce will reduce a hundred zombies into a quivering pile in 60 seconds or less all by himself.

That zombie horde will be a lot less dangerous and easy to clean up once it's crawling on the ground with all the speed of a toddler.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 4 days ago

A man named "Sidi Mohamed Abdallahi" starts shooting a Jewish man while shouting "Allahu akbar!".

Nope, the motivation for this attack is a mystery. We'll just never know why he did it.

[–] [email protected] 22 points 4 days ago* (last edited 4 days ago)

If they show up I hand out the candy and I've been doing it that way for decades. No telling some kid or teens situation in life and there's no need in making it harder on them.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 5 days ago

Sure and living in Wyoming I've seen that happen often enough right in front of me but the more I watch this video the more I want to know how that deer GOT there.

I can see a small shrub in the dark off the (right) side of the road but somehow you can't see the deer enter the lane from either the right or left. The car in front of the Tesla is maybe 40 feet past the deer at the start of the video (watch the reflector posts) but somehow that car had no reaction to the deer standing in the middle of the lane?!

[–] [email protected] 1 points 5 days ago* (last edited 5 days ago)

Is there a longer video anywhere? Looking closely I have to wonder where the hell did that deer come from?

I have the same question. If you watch the video closely the deer is located a few feet before the 2nd reflector post you see at the start of the video. At that point in time the car in front is maybe 20' beyond the post which means they should have encountered the deer within the last 30-40 feet but there was no reaction visible.

You can also see both the left and right sides of the road at the reflector well before the deer is visible, you can even make out a small shrub off the road on the right, and but somehow can't see the deer enter the road from either side?!

It's like the thing just teleported into the middle of the lane.

The more I watch this the more suspicious I am that the video was edited.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 5 days ago (9 children)

A human could probably see it as an obstacle and try to swerve to the side, albeit not knowing what it is.

Attempting to swerve aside at that speed results in over correction, followed by loss of control and then a rollover crash. Happens all the time to people who aren't aware / don't remember that you're supposed to hit deer head on.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 6 days ago (2 children)

Oh? Which test flight demonstrated that?

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 week ago

Which is pretty damn sad and proves what every US President since Clinton said regarding Europe's staggeringly myopic lack of military funding.

[–] [email protected] -3 points 1 week ago (2 children)

Yawn. Got anything to add to the conversation aside from ad hominem?

[–] [email protected] 6 points 1 week ago

Russia is teetering on the brink of it right now.

[–] [email protected] 17 points 1 week ago

That's what THIS fight is about. Qualcomm bought Nuvia and in a nutshell they believe that they acquired Nuvia's ARM license with that purchase, now they're starting to sell chip designs that were done by Nuvia using their ARM license. ARM disagrees that Nuvia's license transferred to Qualcomm and so here we are.

The reason ARM is freaking out about this is because ARM sells functional designs and that's what Qualcomm is starting to do with what they bought from Nuvia. Historically ARM has sold designs and Qualcomm sold chips but now ARM wants to start selling chips and Qualcomm wants to start selling designs.

ARM may still be the good guy but they are not what / who they used to be. Softbank, the Japanese owner of ARM, has been losing its ass on tech investments and they want $$$. This is why ARM did their IPO last fall.

Both ARM and Qualcomm now have the same fiscal pressures so they're going to start acting in a similar fashion.

9
submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

One of my computers is an HP Elitebook X360 1040 G8 (convertible) and I'm happy to report that in Laptop Mode both LM21 and LM22 work perfectly. There's full control of the normal hardware including the touch screen, good performance, and good battery life.

With a couple of exceptions Mint also handles the shift to tablet mode pretty damn well. The keyboard and trackpad are disabled, the keyboard backlight shuts off, and the screen easily changes orientation with rotation.

The exceptions though are so fundamental to touch screen use in general though that I feel like I must be missing something?!

First and foremost is an on screen keyboard. I know it can be enabled under accessibility settings but when I do that it splashes up a keyboard that permanently fills half the screen. If I close the keyboard window it goes away but I can't find a way to get it to come back except to unfold the machine and re-enable it again.

It may not be possible to make it launch predicatively, although Gnome itself does. but why isn't there an icon at the top or bottom of the screen that I can tap to bring it back on demand?

The second one is scrolling, especially in Firefox. I know that Grab and Drag is possible because you can do it with the regular Firefox scroll bar but the scroll bar can be difficult to get on because of it's size and even then the scrolling action is backwards of both iOS and Android. This should be fixable be enabling gestures but surprisingly gestures don't have any assignable scroll functionality.

I'm really confused by these two issues. They seem so fundamental to how a touchscreen is used, especially the on screen keyboard, that it seems impossible they weren't addressed year ago. It's far more probably that I'm missing something obvious, but what?

 

I've had at least one computer with regular Mint + Cinnamon installed since V19 and it's always worked well for me. I somehow only learned about LMDE last month and since I've previously run Debian I figured I'd give it a shot.

I took the drive with my LM22 installation out and installed a brand new 1TB NVME, put LMDE "Faye" on it and YIKES.

I'd forgotten how "raw" regular Debian is in nearly everything from Grub to package management and even Cinnamon is somehow less sharp and sort of lackluster on LMDE.

The first boot up went okay but trying to swap the nouveau drivers for the Nvidia drivers did not go well at all and somehow ended up with all the fonts and icons broken.

I couldn't figure out how to fix it and decided to simply re-install LMDE from scratch, no big deal.

On the 2nd install I started getting AER errors on boot and every time I rebooted I got more of them. At one point the DE locked up entirely and I had to manually power cycle the machine. I couldn't get to the desktop after because of an endless string of AER errors.

In between reboots, while I could still get into the desktop, I was installing updates and while that process was pretty much the same as regular Mint it was also slower, even after changing over to the fastest repositories available. The update manager also didn't work as well. For instance the first update run said it was complete and wanted a reboot but before I could do that the update manager automatically ran again and it showed me all the updates it had just installed as needing installed again. WTF?

After frustrations with the Nvidia drivers, the weirdness of updating, broken desktop environment, and the AER errors I decided to see what would happen if I installed regular LM22.

With LM22 on that exact same hardware, including the new NVME, everything works perfectly. No errors, Nvidia drivers installed without issue, updates worked as expected and Cinnamon looks and behaves just like you'd expect.

Swapped out the NVME for the original drive that had LM22 on it and it too works just like I'd expect.

I'm not running weird-o hardware either; it's a Gigabyte motherboard and an Intel i5 10700k with 32G of RAM and an Nvidia 2060. No overclocking or performance tweaks.

I have no idea what I did wrong, if anything, or why LMDE seems to hate my hardware but for me on that system LMDE is not at parity with regular Linux Mint.

 

New York may become the first state to bar gun companies from selling pistols that can easily be converted into machine guns.

14
submitted 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

I read the sidebar and didn't see anything about asking questions so apologies in advance if this post breaks a rule.

I'm in the U.S. and wanting to knowif Proton Family is a good choice for my use case.

Two decades ago I got tired of changing email addresses whenever my ISP changed so I registered my surname as a .net vanity domain and started running my own email server at home. When Google started offering Google for Organizations for free if you had less than 10 users I folded up my personal email server and shifted everything over. We use it for e-mail and basic family calendaring.

Last month when going through bills my wife and I were once again frustrated by coordination required to sign into various accounts. "Hey what's the password for $CreditCard?" or "What's the MFA you just got for $BankAccount?" or "What's the password for Disney"?"

That got me started looking for a family password manager so we could easily share and keep this stuff up to date.

At the same time we realized that were paying for YouTube TV, YouTube Premium, two YouTube Music, and an Amazon Music subscription. Whoops.

Well, no problem. We'll just "family share" the YTTV and YTP subscriptions so everyone has everything and we save some money.

Nope. G-Suite doesn't allow family sharing. So we're all going to have to create seperate @gmail.com addresses to make this work. Oh, and I'll have to shift the YTTV subscription from my vanity domain to a regular @gmail as well. Which breaks the entire idea behind the vanity domain in the first place.

While I researching a Family Password Manager of course I found Proton Pass. While I was looking at the pricing for it I realized that they also have a "Family" setup for email which looks interesting.

So now I'm considering porting my vanity domain and all it's email out of G-Suite and over to Proton Family. At nearly $300 a year it's not exactly inexpensive, since I'd basically be paying it until I die, and it will be a fair bit of work to switch everything over so I don't want to do it unless it's going to work.

So would Proton Family be a good choice? Are there any significant technical challenges to migrating a custom domain and email out of G-Suite and into Proton?

Edit: This post was rambly and unclear. The TL;DR is that I’m increasingly annoyed with G-Suite and since I’m looking at Proton Pass anyway I'm wondering about Proton Suite (which includes Email, Calendar, and Pass).

17
submitted 9 months ago* (last edited 9 months ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

Always surprises me when I go to do something in HA and realize that I can't figure out how.

This time its lights, specifically making sure that they don't get left on.

Until now I've simply been creating an automation for each light switch so that if it changes state from Off to On and when it's 30 minutes after sunrise it's starts a 15 minute wait and then changes the state of the switch to off.

This approach mostly works but it's less than ideal.

First I'm having to create an automation for each device. How do I do it by Area, or list / group of devices, instead?

Second if a device is turned on too early there's no state change for the automation to catch and it never fires. I could fix this by creating another automation that checks for it but then I'll have even more of them to manage.

Third this doesn't work very well if you want different things to happen on the weekends as opposed to during the weekday. For instance on a Saturday I may WANT that closet light to stay on longer because I'm putting away clothes.

It'd be really nice if I could program HA like this 'On a weekday if you see any device on this list turn on 30 minutes after Sunrise I want you to turn whichever one(s) it was off again 15 minutes later.'.

I'm must be missing something here because surely HA can do this, right?

17
submitted 10 months ago* (last edited 10 months ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

Shortly after the ratGDO v2.5 was released I ordered one and a couple of days later I ordered a case from Etsy to go with it.

Two days later the Etsy seller messages me asking if have the v2.5 or v2.5i because the cases are different. WTF? There's already a new version?! I tell the seller to make it the v2.5i because that's probably what I'll get.

So last week I received a very nice red case from the Etsy Seller HighTower3D out of the North Carolina. Seriously, this thing is nice. The build quality is high, it has magnets in the bottom for mounting, comes with allen screws (and the allen wrench you need) and a couple of little zip ties.

So this week my ratGDO shows up and...it's v2.52i! A quick check of the website shows that there's now a v2.53 and that makes four revisions in the last month!

You can't make this stuff up so all I can do is laugh...and give away the v2.5i case that I spent $26 on and doesn't fit the ratGDO version I ended up with.

I have no use for this case so I'm giving it away to someone who can; make sure you have a v2.5i though because this call will NOT fit any other version.

If you are in the United States and can use this case then leave a reply below. 😊

 

I ordered some sidewalk heating mats from HeatTrak and I want to automate them with HA so that they come on when it makes sense to do so based on the data from my Tempest Weather Station.

According to HeatTrack my mats will have a combined resistive load of 5A which is well within the spec of the Zooz ZEN05 or ZEN14, both rated for 15A resistive loads, but when I asked them about it they did not recommend using either of them with heated mats. They couldn't, or wouldn't, explain why and it doesn't make sense to me why this wouldn't work.

My next thought was to simply swap the outlet to something smart but this is an outdoor outlet so it needs to be GFCI and there's essentially no Z-Wave GFCI outlets made.

Do I really need to use something like an Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus 40-Amp contactor for this or am I missing something here?

 

I have an automation that turns my driveway lights on when motion is detected. It normally works fairly well but it was windy last night and that caused the automation to trip endlessly as my trees and bushes were whipping around. Lights would come on, shut off 10 minutes later, then turn right back on again. It basically did this all night until I disabled the automation.

I'll do some fine tuning of the motion sensors which will help and I'm considering adding a condition to the automation where it won't trip if the wind speed is above a certain level but how can I add some kind of cool down timer to the automation to prevent it from endlessly engaging?

 

First the layout. My garage is setup similar to this one, although mine is attached, has three light fixtures, and my driveway is 4 cars wide.

The wife wants me to replace the three basic on / off fixtures that we have (they're getting rusty) and keep them all matching. If I'm going to do this I want to add a camera to the setup.

Functionally I'd like the lights to have or work like they have dual bright capability where they come on full bright at sunset then after a couple of hours they dim down unless they detect motion. If they detect motion then they come back to full bright for a period of time then dim back down again. They do this for a set period of hours, say 4, then they turn off completely unless they detect motion.

My current lights are already automated for on / off (but not dimming or motion) through the use of HA and a z-wave switch.

Where I'm getting stuck is that I can see at least three ways to do this but none of them are perfect.

  1. Replace my dumb carriage fixtures with new dumb fixtures then change the switch to a dimming version plus add a motion sensor and camera out front. Then setup HA for the functionality I want. The upside of doing it this way is that it's very easy to get matching fixtures. The downside is that the motion sensor and camera will not be well integrated visually.

  2. Replace my dumb fixtures with ones that have dual bright built in. It's easy to do, and I could even keep the HA Automation I have setup now, but again the camera setup is not going to integrate well visually. I'm also concerned that three motion sensors controlling three lights will cause trouble for the camera (or each other) because they will react to different things and turn themselves on and off independently.

  3. Replace my dumb fixtures with smarter ones. In the center position I'd use one that has an integrated motion sensor and camera. This Reolink seems like it would work pretty well. However RL doesn't make any fixtures that match it, which means my center fixture would look different than the other two.

I may just have to deal with mismatched fixtures but does anyone have any suggestions? Am I missing an option?

 

The next step in my HA journey is adding cameras; indoor, outdoor, and doorbell so I've been exploring my options. I had originally intended to do a Frigate setup, I even have a Coral module and PC to do it with, but then I discovered Reolink.

Without having any experience with them they look nearly ideal. They seem to have tight integration with HA 2023.3 or later and their pricing and functionality look good.

They seem like a no brainer but I've noticed that they're often NOT the first recommendation in the HA Community. Why is that and why shouldn't I use them?

 

UDMP is running UniFi OS 3.1.16 and I need a specific VPN configuration that StrongSwan supports but isn't possible to do in the GUI. Three years ago the files I need were located in /run/strongswan/ipsec.d/tunnels/ but they are no longer there. Does anyone know where they live now -or- how to edit a VPN config outside of the GUI?

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