Jimmycrackcrack

Asking on another's behalf. I don't want to give too many details including the car make and model.

This person's new car has the ability for you to 'start' it and also 'turn off' when you finish the journey. It's confusing what the turn off really means. It keeps lights on for some time after you disembark the vehicle whether you want it to or not, and if you open a door it turns on the instrument cluster screen to display a diagram of the car with a door being opened. You can also turn on the infotainment screen and access some but not all options. The manual has some warning about not plugging things in when the car is off as it could drain the battery.

Is there some physical state the high voltage battery is in when the car is 'started' that's different to the state it's in when it's 'off'? Does it have some effect on wear when the battery cycles between those states too often?

This issue came up when they were thinking of buying a dash cam. The dashcam was designed mainly for ICE vehicles and has a feature called 'park mode' where the camera can be in a kind of standby off state while a vehicle is parked and the car engine is off, but can switch itself on if it detects some kind of movement or impact like if someone drives into your parked car. The dashcam website has some warning saying that for EVs, you should buy a separate battery pack for it because this 'parked mode' doesn't work if the dashcam is installed hard wired in to an EV. This is confusing because the 12v battery should always be accessible regardless of the car's "on/off" state and I would have thought worked just like it does in an ICE car, whereby the camera continues to draw some small amount of power to power the standby mode and allows the maximum power draw the camera could need if the camera is triggered by an impact. In ICE cars, this usually only works when something is hardwired because somehow the cigarette lighter outlet doesn't work without the engine running, (I guess by design so you don't drain the battery with accessories and can't start?) but it sounds like from the manual in this EV it continues to work whether the battery is considered "on" or "off" but conversely somehow if you hardwire an accessory to it doesn't?? It's unclear as well whether that means the dashcam's park mode would work if you plug it in to the cigarette lighter outlet of the EV rather than hardwiring, or if it just doesn't work in EVs no matter what you do and requires its own battery, which seems unlikely but is not spelled out anywhere.

I have sequential downloads enabled on my torrent client, I have a download speed that is fast enough that the ETA for the full download of the media is shorter than the duration of the media itself, and I can watch it in IINA or VLC, but, unfortunately Jellyfin doesn't recognise any new media in my designated library folders until a decent amount of time AFTER the entire file is downloaded and has it's correct extension.

Is there some way to watch as one downloads using Jellyfin?

I occasionally do some paid editing work in my home suite. I use a MBP and I just use whatever storage I have left on external drives or buy new ones as the project budget permits. Most of the time, my work is done on-site using a production company's facilities so it's not a big time operation here at home.

I also like to download and watch video over my wifi to to TV or my phone in other rooms of the house (don't typically move the laptop much). I tend to use the laptop's internal drive for that.

I'm beginning to outgrow my storage for both purposes, but only just. I could continue as I am for quite some time, deleting media at home after I watch it, and buying physically fairly small drives to put away in cupboards for work. However, I'm thinking I could fix both storage needs for a very long time by spending a bit bigger (but not MUCH), and getting a proper RAID. My mind immediately went to NAS, but it occurs to me that, that mightn't necessarily be the most cost effective or efficient way to go given the limited scope of my needs.

My home network is very slow consumer equipment, and I have no ethernet infrastructure at all. I thought I could maybe just hook the NAS up to the laptop via ethernet but then at that point, isn't that just DAS with the extra complications of networking? Would I need a switch between the 2? My home streaming is just done over wifi, since everything is compressed media anyway.

If I buy a decent thunderbolt DAS RAID and expose it to the wifi network via the laptop, would the costs stack up in terms of power consumption and wear and tear of the expensive lappy (given it'd be powered on nearly constantly)? Are there NAS devices that I can directly attach to the lappy for editing, but leave on and connected to wifi for home streaming? Would it need any additional networking equipment in that use case? Can I run jellyfin on it? I feel like a NAS doesn't make sense but would like help puzzling this out.

Excuse the basic questions but I'm not having much luck web searching for answers. I have the server running on my laptop which is also where the content itself if and I have an android phone with the mobile client installed via f-droid.

I can't seem to cast to chromecast with Jellyfin from either the laptop itself, or the android client app. The client app lists streaming to chromecast specifically as one of it's features in the description on f-droid.

Just trying out Jellyfin for the first time. I'm also just trying out media server software for the first time, having downloaded Emby 2 weeks ago so forgive if I'm misunderstanding some fundamental concepts.

I have a series on my hard drive that has been incorrectly identified as something else, the Title is wrong, the posters are wrong, the casting information is wrong and I'd hazard a guess the subs are probably wrong too. That's fine, Emby actually got this particular series wrong as well. The difference here though, is I can't figure out what to do about it. I've seen lots of forum posts saying you can enter an imdb ID number but this is a problem because that only seems to be possible for individual episodes, not the whole series, and in any case, it doesn't appear to DO anything when I apply to any one given episode. More frustrating still, each episode in the series has somehow taken the name of the series as its episode name so they all have the same name and you can't tell which episode is which.

How do I remove the incorrect identificaiton and replace it with a manually selected correct ID? Also, importantly, will supplying a correct IMDB number or whatever else it is I need to do to correct this misidentification, cause the correct subs to be downloaded?

I've often thought it would helpful if the thing I was cooking on was close to as wide as the oven itself. In Australia ovens are usually 60x90cm. I often see and use American recipes because they're so common on the English speaking web and they quite often refer to sheet pans or baking sheets, which seem not to be a very common thing here. They look bigger than the types of things I can commonly buy here, which tend to be cookie pans that are really small. I used to think those American baking sheets were literally as big as the oven and slid in as racks but on further research it seems they're not actually that big and also need to sit on racks themselves and aren't as wide as the typical American home ovens.

I guess my theoretical baking rack would need it's rims to be less wide than the distance between rack grooves otherwise the food would touch the oven walls and baked goods that rise would might rise up to those grooves which would be no good either, but still that should only be a few cm. I actually sort of already have what I want as it came with the oven. It's a rack, that's not a wire and is a solid continuous sheet of metal that slides in to rack positions. The problem is, it always produced weird results when baking and seems to burn the bottoms of cookies and also has a large shallow ramp at the front that messes up what you can put on it. I read my oven instructions and discovered you're not actually supposed to cook on this thing and it's for catching drips. That's super weird to me since on occasion it's been used for this purpose accidentally and it's singularly unsuited to the task as any drips immediately bake right on to it and are impossible to remove and produce lots of smoke on the next use of the oven. I guess it's sort of better than nothing since I can theoretically clean that off when I take the rack out to clean it as opposed to the oven floor, but it's only marginally better since the effect of the baked on drippings is so thorough that it's near impossible to scrub off. Anyway, point is, while it's for whatever reason unsuited to the task presumably because of whatever it's made of and it's slightly odd shape, it's proof in my mind that the concept makes sense and can be done, and yet I can't find anything designed for this.

You can buy additional wire style racks, but seemingly not continuous metals sheets of appropriate size to fit in to the rack grooves.

I have been trying in vain to do this in both automator and shortcuts.

The trouble seems to be happening right at the very start. I can't seem to figure out how to get selected files from finder to be passed as input to a shell script running exiftool.

I actually thought this might be a good thing for me to test using chatGPT for as it's meant to be good at this type of thing and while I assume the shell scripts it was generating were probably good, it couldn't seem to get me passed this basic first step.

I've tried making the shortcut a quick action, which by default adds the 'receive' action to the shortcut, but somehow it seems to be impossible to get the output from that to be the input for the shell script, nothing works. This was tested with a few debugging steps to log the output and it definitely looks like that first step is where things are going wrong. I really don't get it. This was way harder than I expected.

I wouldn't want to find out the hard way. I have a BMD decklink 4k mini monitor PCIe card. I used to use it in a PC, but I upgraded to a laptop. To replace with an external input device is too expensive unless I downgrade capability significantly.

PCIe chassis are more expensive than expected but I've noticed ones that specifically call themselves 'eGPU enclosures'. For some reason when they're marketed to that specific purpose, they cost a lot less, probably because they often don't come with power supplies (which I actually have spare).

I'm looking at 2 such eGPU enclosures and they are a decent price and I think they should work, but I'm a little scared by them specifically saying "eGPU". Would I likely have any problems buying one of those for my PCIe device rather than for a graphics card? Or is PCIe, PCIe regardless?

I'm trying to avoid having to throw away my decklink mini monitor 4k that I used in my old PC build. It's a PCIe gen 2 4-lane card.

To replace this card with something new of similar function that uses external ports, I have to either buy something quite a bit worse in terms of function for a little bit more than my current PCIe version currently costs, or something equivalent in function for way, way more than the 4k decklink costs.

I figured best bet would be to just get a PCIe enclosure to keep using my old card with the new laptop but the costs of those enclosures are STAGGERING, just unbelievably high. The cheapest I could find is 2nd hand and so old it uses TB2 ports. I thought that might be okay with thunderbolt adaptors for modern connectors but it occurs to me that Apple Silicon driver support could be an issue. Any idea if it would even work?

Trying to wrap my head around OCPP and what it would mean to me personally if I had an EV and bought a wall charger for it. My understanding is that it would be mostly irrelevant for my needs. It could theoretically be helpful if trying to integrate it in to a Solar Energy system but otherwise for a home consumer I don't totally understand what the benefit might be.

One mentioned benefit is that if you use software with your charger to control certain functions and that software provider goes bust, you won't be left high and dry. Initially I interpreted 'software' to mean the app for a smartphone for controlling the charger for things like scheduled charging, or setting a maximum charge or maybe setting different power levels of charge. If the company that sold me the inverter and by extension provided the app, went out of business, that would be bad in terms of the app eventually becoming obsolete and that seemingly would make the idea of OCPP compliant wallboxes attractive, however I've never heard of generic charging apps for consumers that will use OCPP to control a wallbox for basic functions like I describe. It sounds like the 'software' being referred to is for more advanced use cases like for example, integrating with a solar energy system or maybe a business running multiple charger points and wanting automated billing from various chargers of various brands.

Would the charger being OCPP compliant actually help an average person in the event that the charger company goes out of business and the app becomes obsolete or unobtainable from mainstream app stores?

When I want to find an app I haven't pinned to the home screen I swipe up from the bottom of the home screen to bring up a search bar where I can search for an app by name or scroll through list of all apps on the phone.

Thing is the search bar on my new pixel phone is actually a Google search bar that will search apps locally at the same time as providing web results, especially if it can't find the app by name.

It's a nice idea in theory but in practice I find it annoying, especially if I've just made a typo. Also, I'm just never going to use this search bar for web searching anyway because for that I would want my chosen browser so the web results are of no use to me.

I actually remember my old phone used to do what I wanted it to do, then one day it switched to what my new phone currently does and after a long time I found the solution to return it back to it's previous behaviour except now I've forgotten what I did.

I only want to search my phone's local storage for apps matching my keyword when I access the app drawer. How do I get rid of this Google search bar? (I'd love to get rid of the Google search bar from the home screen itself as well but I understand I can't do that without root on stock android.

It's strange but listening again to music from about 20 years ago, during a time when I was mostly sad and depressed, and where the musical choices reflected that, gives me a weird sense of nostalgia and longing for that time.

I know it's not unusual for music to do that, that's just run of the mill, it's just odd that, it has me longing for a time and associated mood that, on the whole, I kind of didn't really enjoy very much. The angsty tracks were what I listened to because I was so bummed out and dissatisfied.